https://wiki.batc.org.uk/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=G0MJW 2026-05-25T22:18:17Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.35.6 https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=MiniTiouner_hardware_Version_2&diff=11888 2025-08-31T09:37:13Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Building the Version 2 MiniTiouner PCB */</p> <hr /> <div>The Minitiouner hardware is designed for easy home construction, uses only leaded components and consists of the 3 main components.<br /> <br /> To build the unit you only need to buy the following components from the BATC shop [https://batc.org.uk/category/usb-receivers/].<br /> <br /> *The ready programmed USB interface.<br /> <br /> *The version 2 main PCB.<br /> <br /> *The Serit 4334 tuner or NIM covering 143 - 2450 MHz. <br /> <br /> *The unit uses an adjustable MCP1826 as the 1V regulator, which can be hard to find.<br /> <br /> All other components such as Rs, Cs and 5V buck regulator are available from normal suppliers - see the parts list further down this page. <br /> <br /> [[File:serit in box2.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Building the Version 2 MiniTiouner PCB===<br /> <br /> The PCB has been developed to fit snuggly inside a Hammond 1455 series 103x120x53mm enclosure and uses standard leaded components so no specialist techniques needed.<br /> <br /> Mike, G0MJW, has written an excellent guide on building and testing the board - download them here [[:Media:Notes on building the BATC v2 Minitiouner.pdf|Notes on building the BATC v2 Minitiouner]]. This pdf includes a Panel layout for the Hammond Box. The height of the USB connector depends on the header used, but if the one in the BOM is selected, the bottom of the connector will be ~19mm from the bottom of the panel.<br /> <br /> [[File:Serit2.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> ===Parts list and schematic===<br /> <br /> The parts list and schematic are available for download here:<br /> <br /> * [[:media:SERIF.pdf| Circuit diagram / schematic]]<br /> * [[:media:Seritpartsv3.xls| Parts list]]<br /> <br /> Note the 22uF electrolytic capacitors on the regulators are low ESR types chosen to minimise oscillation - substitute at your peril! Ceramics can be used instead but through hole 22uF ceramics are expensive.<br /> <br /> The small regulator module is used to reduce the 12V input down to 5V to reduce power dissipation in the linear regulators. The recommended type is available from ebay - search for &quot;MP1584 step down buck regulator&quot;.<br /> <br /> The blank PCB, tuner, USB module and 1 volt regulator are available from [https://batc.org.uk/category/usb-receivers/ the BATC shop] <br /> <br /> [[File:Serit complete.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> ===Setting up the hardware===<br /> <br /> The design uses a MP1584 buck converter step down module to reduce the input, which can be in the range 6-20V down to 4V. Using a switching converter significantly reduces the generated heat. Optionally a 3.7-5.5V supply can be used instead, bypassing the converter Three low drop out linear voltage regulators are used to regulate the digital 3.3V and 1.2V and analogue 3.3V supply rails. Linear regulators and extensive filtering are used to ensure low noise for maximum RF performance. <br /> <br /> There is not much to set up but before connecting the DC-DC converter to the input of the linear regulators, the output MUST be set to 3.7-4V output. This is because these LDO regulators can only handle a maximum of 6V input. There is a Zener to provide some protection but damage is still possible and worst case you could end up with whatever is on the input appearing at the output - i.e. 5.6V on the 3.3V and 1.2V rails.<br /> <br /> There are two options, one is to set the correct converter voltage before its installed on the PCB. The other is to remember not to fit the jumper JP2, ALT 4V that connects it to the regulators and set it up in commissioning.<br /> <br /> We recommend that you build and then test all the voltage rails BEFORE fitting the NIM. This is easy as you can probe the top of the RFCs to measure them.<br /> <br /> If you don't use the DC-DC converter and run directly off an external 5V (DO NOT connect a higher voltage) supply to JP2, you may need to heatsink the regulators. With the DC-DC converter, the copper area on the board seems to be adequate as a heatsink.<br /> <br /> Do not allow too much strain to be exerted on the USB socket - at least one has been known to dislodge during use.<br /> <br /> ===MiniTiouner version 0.8+ software===<br /> <br /> A small modification must be carried out before this version 2 hardware can be used with the MiniTiouner version 0.8 (Spring 2018) or any later versions.<br /> <br /> A resistor between 5.6k and 12k must be fitted between CN2 Pin 19 on the USB module (U6 on the BATC PCB) and ground as shown in the pictures by G7JTT and M1EGI.<br /> <br /> [[File:resistor mod.JPG|400px|G1MEG]] [[File:mod2.JPG|180px\G7JTT]]<br /> <br /> ===Programming the FT2232 USB module===<br /> <br /> All USB modules sold by the BATC shop are ready programmed and you do NOT need to reprogram it..<br /> <br /> If you obtained your module from elsewhere or you need to reprogram it it follow the instructions here http://www.vivadatv.org/viewtopic.php?f=80&amp;t=379 The template xml file for the MiniTiouner is available as a zipped file for download here.[[:File:NIM tuner.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===Testing and using the MiniTiouner for the first time===<br /> <br /> Once you are satisfied the voltage levels are correct and there is no smoke, you need to connect your hardware up to a [[Ryde Introduction|Raspberry Pi4 Ryde receiver]] or a PC running the MiniTioune software.<br /> <br /> Full details including how to set up the MiniTiouner software, drivers and decoders is on the [[MiniTioune software|MiniTioune software page]].<br /> <br /> ===On the air===<br /> <br /> Apart from the the version 1 PCB with adaptor card, this version 2 PCB with Serit tuner is the only available solution to receive and decode DVB-S2 reduced bandwidth modes - this picture shows G0MJW receiving G8GTZ/P 1920*1080 HD pictures on 146 MHz using 32 APSK (approximately 1.3 mbit/s in 550 KHz bandwidth).<br /> <br /> [[File:G8GTZ 32 APSK Portsdown.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ==Serit LNB DC supply problems ==<br /> <br /> A number of people on the BATC forum have reported their Serit tuners are no longer outputting the LNB voltage from one of the F sockets. The cause is inevitably an open circuit inductor (L101 or L102) after the output has been accidentally short-circuited.<br /> <br /> This wiki page has more details of how to repair a broken tuner and details of an add on PCB with a DC current limited supply.<br /> <br /> [[Serit LNB DC supply]]<br /> <br /> ==Dual channel output for the Minitiouner hardware==<br /> ===Hardware===<br /> <br /> It has always been known that the Serit 4473 NIM used in MiniTiouner has a dual tuner capability and is capable of tuning to and outputting two separate channels. When the version 2 MiniTiouner PCB was designed by Mike G0MJW and Jean-Pierre F6DZP they included a 2nd transport stream output on a separate socket next door to the tuner module.<br /> <br /> [[File:M21.JPG|400px]]<br /> <br /> Because when the unit is used for terrestrial contacts there is no need for a 2nd channel, the USB interface board needed to use the 2nd channel was never developed. However, with the launch of Oscar100, there are often 2 or more separate signals on the wideband transponder. As a result of this potential application, Mike G0MJW has now developed a small daughter board that hosts a 2nd USB module and 74HC-10 chip and plugs into the main MiniTiouner board providing a second USB output whilst still fitting inside the standard Hammond case.<br /> <br /> [[File:M23.JPG|400px]]<br /> <br /> The new daughter board sits on top of a standard header fitted to the empty socket next door to the Serit NIM. <br /> <br /> [[File:M24.JPG|400px]]<br /> <br /> [[File:M25.JPG|400px]][[File:M26.JPG|400px]]<br /> <br /> [[File:M27.JPG|400px]][[File:M28.JPG|400px]]<br /> <br /> ===Schematic===<br /> <br /> The circuit is identical to the main MiniTiouner PCB. PCBs are available from the BATC shop.<br /> <br /> [[File:M22.JPG|600px]]<br /> <br /> Two new holes need to be drilled in the front panel, one for USB and one for support. A simple bracket needs to be fabricated to manage the USB plugging forces.<br /> <br /> ===Software===<br /> <br /> Tom ZS6RTG is currently developing a dual-channel version of opentuner.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11685 2025-01-06T16:06:23Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Rev 3 */</p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB that will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop from the beginning of April 2024.<br /> <br /> https://batc.org.uk/shop/picotuner-blank-pcb/<br /> <br /> Note:- The following pictures show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. The basic Pico model is all you need for USB operation. The basic Pico (without wireless) comes in two versions, one with header pins (the Pico H) at about £5, and one without header pins (the Pico) at about £4.<br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> *The parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerADJBOM_updated.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> *The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> It should look a bit like this (Excepting R4 value)<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTuner-Rev1.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 parts list (BOM) is available here:[[:File:PicoTunerRev3_BOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerRev3.pdf]]<br /> <br /> * The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]] This can be printed out (you will have to get the correct scaling on your printer) and tacked on to the Hammond case back panel and drilled. 3D STL[[:File:PicoBackPanelSTL.zip]]<br /> <br /> The blank PCB, available from the BATC shop looks like this:<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner v3 board.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> and when built:<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Parts Availability===<br /> <br /> The continued availability of specified components is an ongoing problem for designs such as this.<br /> The 3v3 regulator TPS78533 can be substituted with the onsemi NCV5661DT33RKG, available from DigiKey with part number NCV5661DT33RKGOSCT-ND.<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB. The pictures above show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. A standard Raspberry Pi Pico (non-wifi) is all that is required for a USB connected PicoTuner. <br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the ground plane on the back side of the PCB for heat dissipation. So, start with this chip. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place and flat against the board. When happy, turn over the board and with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the small slot intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but you need a large iron to give a decent thermal mass due to the copper ground plane. Use the correct tools, don't be tempted to try a small 25w iron that will take a long time slowly getting the joint up to solder melting point, as that will damage the chip.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with regulators U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics. <br /> <br /> If you plan to use the type B USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND. You can also directly solder the USB lead to the Test Points under the USB socket on the Pico; the +V line can be routed through the adjacent hole abnd soldered to the top of Pin 40 as shown here.<br /> <br /> '''NOTE the correct way round to fit the Pico in the picture below'''<br /> <br /> [[File:USB Colours.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> |+ USB Wiring<br /> |-<br /> ! Signal !! Colour !! Pico TestPoint<br /> |-<br /> | Gnd || Black || TP1<br /> |-<br /> | Data+ || Green || TP3<br /> |-<br /> | Data- || White || TP2<br /> |-<br /> | V+ || Red || Pin 40<br /> |}<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. <br /> <br /> Select external power by shorting middle to EXT on JP4. Remember to fit the fuse and short JP1 to enable power in. Put 12v on the power input socket J1 and there should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoBackPanelSTL.zip&diff=11684 2025-01-06T16:06:11Z

<p>G0MJW: File uploaded with MsUpload</p> <hr /> <div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=Portsdown_4_Pluto&diff=11671 2024-12-10T22:15:03Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Suitable Pluto Firmware */</p> <hr /> <div><br /> Evariste, F5OEO has produced firmware for the Pluto SDR which enables it to be a very capable DATV modulator. This firmware has 2 modes.<br /> <br /> * RTMP stream Input<br /> * Webpage Control with UDP stream input.<br /> <br /> The RTMP stream input mode is very suitable for use in small systems and this is what is used by the Portsdown.<br /> <br /> The Webpage control mode is ideal for desktop computers and is continually being developed. It is not suitable for use with the Portsdown. <br /> <br /> ===Mode of Operation===<br /> <br /> The existing Portsdown software has had additional commands added to enable it to generate an RTMP stream (using ffmpeg) and send it to the Pluto. RTMP will only handle H264 encoding, so MPEG-2 (and H265) modes are not available.<br /> <br /> ===Suitable Pluto Firmware===<br /> <br /> All testing has been done using F5OEO's &quot;for the brave&quot; Pluto firmware (FIRM2101RC of 5 February 2020). Extract the firmware from this zip file''' [[:File:FIRM2101RC.zip]] '''and follow the instructions on this web page '''VERY CAREFULLY''' [https://wiki.analog.com/university/tools/pluto/users/firmware#mass_storage_update Analog Devices Firmware Upgrade Instructions]. The Pluto must already have been modified for extended frequency range, and it is worth enabling the second processor.<br /> <br /> Note that the more recent Revision C (outside label) (marked as Revision D on the PCB) Plutos need an extra environment variable setting for the frequency extension. In addition to the other commands, at the command line of the Pluto enter<br /> fw_setenv compatible ad9364<br /> <br /> You can check that you have the correct Firmware loaded from the &quot;Pluto Configuration Menu&quot; (reached from Menu 3). It should report Firmware version v0.31-4-g9ceb-dirty.<br /> <br /> ===Powering the Pluto===<br /> <br /> The Raspberry Pi 4 has increased power capabilities on its USB ports, and the Pluto does not work well with USB Hubs, so it is recommended that you connect the Pluto directly to a USB3 port (the blue ones) on the Raspberry Pi 4. Do not use a USB hub or power the Pluto from its USB power port.<br /> <br /> The Pluto will sometimes refuse to connect to the Portsdown 4 if the voltage on the Raspberry Pi's USB port is above 5.0v. In contrast to the advice for the LimeSDR (where the Raspberry Pi should be supplied with 5.2 v), it is recommended that for Pluto operation the Raspberry Pi is run from 5.0 v. An alternative is to modify a USB lead for the Pluto with a Schottky rectifier diode in the positive supply line to drop about 0.25 v.<br /> <br /> ===Current Functionality===<br /> <br /> * H264 only. No MPEG-2 or H265 (even when using IPTS In)<br /> * 4:3 SD, 16:9 or 720p. No 1080p<br /> * You can set and store (for each band) Pluto relative power on a range of 0 to -71. This approximates to dBm, but is plus or minus 10 dB.<br /> * Maximum frequency 4.1 GHz (so no 6 cm band).<br /> * I have seen it work well on symbol rates between 125 and 1000 kS.<br /> * DVB-S or DVB-S2<br /> * DVB-T from 150 kHz to 1 MHz bandwidth<br /> * Video source Pi Cam (must have USB audio dongle connected as well), Comp Video, old-style C920, Test card, Contest or LKV373A HDMI.<br /> * Pluto and RPi GPIO PTT switching implemented.<br /> * H264 IPTS In for both DVB-S/S2 output and DVB-T output<br /> <br /> ===Limitations===<br /> <br /> * In DVB-S mode, a bug prevents transmissions at FECs of 5/6 and 7/8. All other FECs are OK. There is no plan to fix this.<br /> * In DVB-S and DVB-S2 modes, if a callsign with a / is used (like G8GKQ/P), the Pluto will transmit &quot;Service01&quot; as the Provider ID.<br /> * The maximum supported symbol rate for DVB-S or DVB-S2 with the Pluto is 1 MS. If you want higher SRs it is recommended that you use a LimeSDR Mini with the LimeDVB firmware.<br /> * An audio source (such as a webcam microphone or USB dongle) must be present and selected for DVB-S/S2 transmissions, otherwise the transmitter will not operate.<br /> * Transmitting only a carrier is not supported by the Pluto firmware<br /> <br /> ===Pluto Output Level===<br /> <br /> Thanks to DC1OP for this plot of Pluto output level<br /> <br /> [[File:Pluto output.jpg|576px]]</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=Gerber_Files&diff=11646 2024-11-23T19:33:13Z

<p>G0MJW: /* G0MJW's PD4 board */</p> <hr /> <div>This is a centralised index of Gerber Files which have been used for BATC and BATC Members' projects.<br /> <br /> No responsibility is accepted for any errors, but they are listed here to promote home construction and experimentation.<br /> <br /> Files should be uploaded as .zip files, and should also be referenced from another Wiki page describing the project.<br /> <br /> ===Ryde Front Panel===<br /> <br /> The Ryde Front Panel Push Button PCB as descried here: [[Ryde_Hardware#Ryde_front_panel]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Gerbers.zip|thumb|Ryde Front Panel PCBGerbers]]<br /> <br /> ===ADF4351 PIC Controller===<br /> <br /> The ADF4351 PIC Controller described here: [[ADF435x_PIC]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:adf435x.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===DATV Repeater Audio Switch===<br /> <br /> The DATV Repeater Audio Switch as described here [[DATV_repeater_audio_switch]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:REPEATER I2C AUDIO SWITCH V2022.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's Ryde board===<br /> <br /> This is like a plug in board for the PI4 that provides the 5V PSU, a cooling option and Ryde IO interface. The information is all below. There are two PSU options, only one is required. All fairly simple. These Gerbers are set up for JLC PCB. In theory all you need to do is upload the zip file with the gerbers and select quantity, solder mask colour and postage options. The BOM is an HTML file in the ibom zip.<br /> <br /> [[:File:RydeGpioV2.zip]]<br /> <br /> [[File:RYDE GPIO 3D.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> [[File:RydeV2Schematic.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:ibom.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's PD4 board===<br /> <br /> TBC (after CAT22)<br /> <br /> This is a PCB to implement a Portsdown 4 with 25 pid connector for interfacing to test equipment and a PTT transistor that can switch light loads. There are also headers for the Langstone. <br /> <br /> [[File:P4GPIO2.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> Schematic [[:File:P4GPIO.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Gerbers [[:File:P4GPIO25Way.zip]]<br /> <br /> BOM [[:File:ibom25way.zip]]<br /> <br /> Sorry there is no parts list for Farnell, etc because the parts they supply just change too often, see the BOM for inspiration. The resistors and capacitors are mostly standard 0805 SMD, there are two through hole 100uF 16V electrolytics, non critical as long as they fit and you may want to fit a larger 2512 SMD resistor in the fan supply to slow it down if too loud. The headers are Molex KK254 or equivalent, you only need to fit them if you plan to use them. The PI GPIO header socket is on the bottom of the board, take care not to fit it on the top by mistake! There are two PSU options, only one is needed. The small MCP1584 DC-DC module, as used in the Minitiouner, is probably the easiest to obtain, if you fit this there is no need for the voltage programming resistors R1, R2 and R3 which are needed with the alternative Murata module - see the schematic. Needless to say, the MCP1584 module pot has to be set for 5V before connecting the PI. The reverse protection diode can be almost anything that will survive until the 1.5A PTC fuse activates. I got my PCB mounting DB25 from AliExpress, but they are available from major suppliers. The dimensions vary between suppliers, so be sure to check the PCB footprint for the one you choose. The right one is fairly short and should be flush with the PI USB/Ethernet when you out it in a box.<br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's HF3 relay board===<br /> Here's Mike's design for a SPDT relay PCB. The relay is General Purpose Relay, [https://uk.farnell.com/axicom-te-connectivity/hf3-56/relay-spdt-220vac-2a/dp/9913599 HF3 Series, High Frequency, Non Latching, SPDT, 12 VDC, 2 A]. Part number is dependant on the voltage in use in circuit. A surface mount diode e.g 1N4148 type, Molex KK connector and 3 SMA to PCB unions complete the build.<br /> <br /> [[File:HF3_Relay_board.JPG|250px]]<br /> <br /> Gerbers [[:File:HF3_relay_board_gerbers.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===LNB bias tee and reference injection PCB===<br /> <br /> PCB Gerbers for the LNB Bias T and reference injection by Mike G0MJW in CQ-TV263 – or see BATC forum for more details: <br /> https://forum.batc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=15&amp;t=3122&amp;p=17416#p17343<br /> <br /> [[File:bias.PNG|400px]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:BiasTGerbers.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===M0RNW's G8TA Rx/Tx Changeover Controller Board===<br /> This is v1 designed for a latching relay of up to 6 into 1 ports using an Arduino Nano. Hopefully it features in CQ-TV-279. PCB is intended for rail mounting in a 3U cabinet.<br /> <br /> Three SN754410NE H bridge driver ICs are used. The DC-DC boost converters are XL4005 type boards off EBay. U2 can be omitted - it's for an 18V supply to an LNB. Other components - see schematic.<br /> <br /> [[File:G8TA_Portsdown_RxTx_Changeover_-1.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> Gerbers [[:File:Rx-Tx_Changeover_Gerbers.zip]]<br /> <br /> Schematic [[:File:RxTx-Changeover.pdf_revised_20230207.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Sketch for Arduino Nano[[:File:RxTxChangeoverV1.ino]]</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=Gerber_Files&diff=11645 2024-11-23T19:21:38Z

<p>G0MJW: /* G0MJW's PD4 board */</p> <hr /> <div>This is a centralised index of Gerber Files which have been used for BATC and BATC Members' projects.<br /> <br /> No responsibility is accepted for any errors, but they are listed here to promote home construction and experimentation.<br /> <br /> Files should be uploaded as .zip files, and should also be referenced from another Wiki page describing the project.<br /> <br /> ===Ryde Front Panel===<br /> <br /> The Ryde Front Panel Push Button PCB as descried here: [[Ryde_Hardware#Ryde_front_panel]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Gerbers.zip|thumb|Ryde Front Panel PCBGerbers]]<br /> <br /> ===ADF4351 PIC Controller===<br /> <br /> The ADF4351 PIC Controller described here: [[ADF435x_PIC]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:adf435x.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===DATV Repeater Audio Switch===<br /> <br /> The DATV Repeater Audio Switch as described here [[DATV_repeater_audio_switch]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:REPEATER I2C AUDIO SWITCH V2022.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's Ryde board===<br /> <br /> This is like a plug in board for the PI4 that provides the 5V PSU, a cooling option and Ryde IO interface. The information is all below. There are two PSU options, only one is required. All fairly simple. These Gerbers are set up for JLC PCB. In theory all you need to do is upload the zip file with the gerbers and select quantity, solder mask colour and postage options. The BOM is an HTML file in the ibom zip.<br /> <br /> [[:File:RydeGpioV2.zip]]<br /> <br /> [[File:RYDE GPIO 3D.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> [[File:RydeV2Schematic.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:ibom.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's PD4 board===<br /> <br /> TBC (after CAT22)<br /> <br /> This is a PCB to implement a Portsdown 4 with 25 pid connector for interfacing to test equipment.<br /> <br /> [[File:P4GPIO2.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> Schematic [[:File:P4GPIO.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Gerbers [[:File:P4GPIO25Way.zip]]<br /> <br /> BOM [[:File:ibom25way.zip]]<br /> <br /> Sorry there is no parts list for Farnell, etc because the parts they supply just change too often, see the BOM for inspiration. The resistors and capacitors are mostly standard 0805 SMD, there are two through hole 100uF 16V electrolytics, non critical as long as they fit and you may want to fit a larger 2512 SMD resistor in the fan supply to slow it down if too loud. The headers Molex KK254 or equivalent, with a PI GPIO header socket on the bottom of the board. There are two PSU options, only one needed with the small MCP1584 DC-DC module, like used in the Minitiouner, probably the easiest to obtain, if you fit this there is no need for the voltage programming resistors R1, R2 and R3 needed with the alternative Murata module - see the schematic. Needless to say, the MCP1584 module pot has to be set for 5V before connecting the PI. The reverse protection diode can be almost anything that will survive until the PTC fuse activates and then. I got my PCB mounting DB25 from AliExpress, but they are available from major suppliers. The dimensions vary between suppliers, so be sure to check the PCB footprint for the one you choose.<br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's HF3 relay board===<br /> Here's Mike's design for a SPDT relay PCB. The relay is General Purpose Relay, [https://uk.farnell.com/axicom-te-connectivity/hf3-56/relay-spdt-220vac-2a/dp/9913599 HF3 Series, High Frequency, Non Latching, SPDT, 12 VDC, 2 A]. Part number is dependant on the voltage in use in circuit. A surface mount diode e.g 1N4148 type, Molex KK connector and 3 SMA to PCB unions complete the build.<br /> <br /> [[File:HF3_Relay_board.JPG|250px]]<br /> <br /> Gerbers [[:File:HF3_relay_board_gerbers.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===LNB bias tee and reference injection PCB===<br /> <br /> PCB Gerbers for the LNB Bias T and reference injection by Mike G0MJW in CQ-TV263 – or see BATC forum for more details: <br /> https://forum.batc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=15&amp;t=3122&amp;p=17416#p17343<br /> <br /> [[File:bias.PNG|400px]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:BiasTGerbers.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===M0RNW's G8TA Rx/Tx Changeover Controller Board===<br /> This is v1 designed for a latching relay of up to 6 into 1 ports using an Arduino Nano. Hopefully it features in CQ-TV-279. PCB is intended for rail mounting in a 3U cabinet.<br /> <br /> Three SN754410NE H bridge driver ICs are used. The DC-DC boost converters are XL4005 type boards off EBay. U2 can be omitted - it's for an 18V supply to an LNB. Other components - see schematic.<br /> <br /> [[File:G8TA_Portsdown_RxTx_Changeover_-1.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> Gerbers [[:File:Rx-Tx_Changeover_Gerbers.zip]]<br /> <br /> Schematic [[:File:RxTx-Changeover.pdf_revised_20230207.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Sketch for Arduino Nano[[:File:RxTxChangeoverV1.ino]]</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=Gerber_Files&diff=11644 2024-11-23T19:15:50Z

<p>G0MJW: A little more explanation for the less experienced</p> <hr /> <div>This is a centralised index of Gerber Files which have been used for BATC and BATC Members' projects.<br /> <br /> No responsibility is accepted for any errors, but they are listed here to promote home construction and experimentation.<br /> <br /> Files should be uploaded as .zip files, and should also be referenced from another Wiki page describing the project.<br /> <br /> ===Ryde Front Panel===<br /> <br /> The Ryde Front Panel Push Button PCB as descried here: [[Ryde_Hardware#Ryde_front_panel]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Gerbers.zip|thumb|Ryde Front Panel PCBGerbers]]<br /> <br /> ===ADF4351 PIC Controller===<br /> <br /> The ADF4351 PIC Controller described here: [[ADF435x_PIC]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:adf435x.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===DATV Repeater Audio Switch===<br /> <br /> The DATV Repeater Audio Switch as described here [[DATV_repeater_audio_switch]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:REPEATER I2C AUDIO SWITCH V2022.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's Ryde board===<br /> <br /> This is like a plug in board for the PI4 that provides the 5V PSU, a cooling option and Ryde IO interface. The information is all below. There are two PSU options, only one is required. All fairly simple. These Gerbers are set up for JLC PCB. In theory all you need to do is upload the zip file with the gerbers and select quantity, solder mask colour and postage options. The BOM is an HTML file in the ibom zip.<br /> <br /> [[:File:RydeGpioV2.zip]]<br /> <br /> [[File:RYDE GPIO 3D.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> [[File:RydeV2Schematic.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:ibom.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's PD4 board===<br /> <br /> TBC (after CAT22)<br /> <br /> This is a PCB to implement a Portsdown 4 with 25 pid connector for interfacing to test equipment.<br /> <br /> [[File:P4GPIO2.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> Schematic [[:File:P4GPIO.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Gerbers [[:File:P4GPIO25Way.zip]]<br /> <br /> BOM [[:File:ibom25way.zip]]<br /> <br /> Sorry there is no parts list for Farnell, etc because the parts they supply just change too often. The resistors and capacitors are mostly standard 0805 SMD, there are two electrolytics, non critical and you may want to fit a larger 2512 SMD resistor in the fan supply to slow it down if too loud. The headers Molex KK254 or equivalent, with a PI GPIO header socket on the bottom of the board. There are two PSU options, only one needed with the small MCP1584 DC-DC module, like used in the Minitiouner, probably the easiest to obtain, if you fit this there is no need for the voltage programming resistors R1, R2 and R3 needed with the alternative Murata module - see the schematic. Needless to say, the MCP1584 module pot has to be set for 5V before connecting the PI. I got my DB25 from AliExpress, but they are available from major suppliers. <br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's HF3 relay board===<br /> Here's Mike's design for a SPDT relay PCB. The relay is General Purpose Relay, [https://uk.farnell.com/axicom-te-connectivity/hf3-56/relay-spdt-220vac-2a/dp/9913599 HF3 Series, High Frequency, Non Latching, SPDT, 12 VDC, 2 A]. Part number is dependant on the voltage in use in circuit. A surface mount diode e.g 1N4148 type, Molex KK connector and 3 SMA to PCB unions complete the build.<br /> <br /> [[File:HF3_Relay_board.JPG|250px]]<br /> <br /> Gerbers [[:File:HF3_relay_board_gerbers.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===LNB bias tee and reference injection PCB===<br /> <br /> PCB Gerbers for the LNB Bias T and reference injection by Mike G0MJW in CQ-TV263 – or see BATC forum for more details: <br /> https://forum.batc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=15&amp;t=3122&amp;p=17416#p17343<br /> <br /> [[File:bias.PNG|400px]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:BiasTGerbers.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===M0RNW's G8TA Rx/Tx Changeover Controller Board===<br /> This is v1 designed for a latching relay of up to 6 into 1 ports using an Arduino Nano. Hopefully it features in CQ-TV-279. PCB is intended for rail mounting in a 3U cabinet.<br /> <br /> Three SN754410NE H bridge driver ICs are used. The DC-DC boost converters are XL4005 type boards off EBay. U2 can be omitted - it's for an 18V supply to an LNB. Other components - see schematic.<br /> <br /> [[File:G8TA_Portsdown_RxTx_Changeover_-1.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> Gerbers [[:File:Rx-Tx_Changeover_Gerbers.zip]]<br /> <br /> Schematic [[:File:RxTx-Changeover.pdf_revised_20230207.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Sketch for Arduino Nano[[:File:RxTxChangeoverV1.ino]]</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerRev3_BOM.xlsx&diff=11271 2024-06-20T07:18:00Z

<p>G0MJW: G0MJW uploaded a new version of File:PicoTunerRev3 BOM.xlsx</p> <hr /> <div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11256 2024-05-31T18:23:24Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Rev 3 */</p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB that will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop from the beginning of April 2024.<br /> <br /> https://batc.org.uk/shop/picotuner-blank-pcb/<br /> <br /> Note:- The following pictures show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. The basic Pico model is all you need for USB operation. The basic Pico (without wireless) comes in two versions, one with header pins (the Pico H) at about £5, and one without header pins (the Pico) at about £4.<br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> *The parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerADJBOM_updated.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> *The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> It should look a bit like this (Excepting R4 value)<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTuner-Rev1.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 parts list (BOM) is available here:[[:File:PicoTunerRev3_BOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerRev3.pdf]]<br /> <br /> * The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]] This can be printed out (you will have to get the correct scaling on your printer) and tacked on to the Hammond case back panel and drilled.<br /> <br /> The blank PCB, available from the BATC shop looks like this:<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner v3 board.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> and when built:<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Parts Availability===<br /> <br /> The continued availability of specified components is an ongoing problem for designs such as this.<br /> The 3v3 regulator TPS78533 can be substituted with the onsemi NCV5661DT33RKG, available from DigiKey with part number NCV5661DT33RKGOSCT-ND.<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB. The pictures above show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. A standard Raspberry Pi Pico (non-wifi) is all that is required for a USB connected PicoTuner. <br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the ground plane on the back side of the PCB for heat dissipation. So, start with this chip. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place and flat against the board. When happy, turn over the board and with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the small slot intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but you need a large iron to give a decent thermal mass due to the copper ground plane. Use the correct tools, don't be tempted to try a small 25w iron that will take a long time slowly getting the joint up to solder melting point, as that will damage the chip.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with regulators U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics. <br /> <br /> If you plan to use the type B USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND. You can also directly solder the USB lead to the Test Points under the USB socket on the Pico; the +V line can be routed through the adjacent hole abnd soldered to the top of Pin 40 as shown here.<br /> <br /> '''NOTE the correct way round to fit the Pico in the picture below'''<br /> <br /> [[File:USB Colours.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> |+ USB Wiring<br /> |-<br /> ! Signal !! Colour !! Pico TestPoint<br /> |-<br /> | Gnd || Black || TP1<br /> |-<br /> | Data+ || Green || TP3<br /> |-<br /> | Data- || White || TP2<br /> |-<br /> | V+ || Red || Pin 40<br /> |}<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. <br /> <br /> Select external power by shorting middle to EXT on JP4. Remember to fit the fuse and short JP1 to enable power in. Put 12v on the power input socket J1 and there should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerRev3_BOM.xlsx&diff=11255 2024-05-31T18:23:07Z

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G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11254 2024-05-31T18:19:46Z

<p>G0MJW: </p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB that will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop from the beginning of April 2024.<br /> <br /> https://batc.org.uk/shop/picotuner-blank-pcb/<br /> <br /> Note:- The following pictures show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. The basic Pico model is all you need for USB operation. The basic Pico (without wireless) comes in two versions, one with header pins (the Pico H) at about £5, and one without header pins (the Pico) at about £4.<br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> *The parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerADJBOM_updated.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> *The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> It should look a bit like this (Excepting R4 value)<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTuner-Rev1.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerRev3.pdf]]<br /> <br /> * The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]] This can be printed out (you will have to get the correct scaling on your printer) and tacked on to the Hammond case back panel and drilled.<br /> <br /> The blank PCB, available from the BATC shop looks like this:<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner v3 board.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> and when built:<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Parts Availability===<br /> <br /> The continued availability of specified components is an ongoing problem for designs such as this.<br /> The 3v3 regulator TPS78533 can be substituted with the onsemi NCV5661DT33RKG, available from DigiKey with part number NCV5661DT33RKGOSCT-ND.<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB. The pictures above show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. A standard Raspberry Pi Pico (non-wifi) is all that is required for a USB connected PicoTuner. <br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the ground plane on the back side of the PCB for heat dissipation. So, start with this chip. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place and flat against the board. When happy, turn over the board and with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the small slot intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but you need a large iron to give a decent thermal mass due to the copper ground plane. Use the correct tools, don't be tempted to try a small 25w iron that will take a long time slowly getting the joint up to solder melting point, as that will damage the chip.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with regulators U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics. <br /> <br /> If you plan to use the type B USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND. You can also directly solder the USB lead to the Test Points under the USB socket on the Pico; the +V line can be routed through the adjacent hole abnd soldered to the top of Pin 40 as shown here.<br /> <br /> '''NOTE the correct way round to fit the Pico in the picture below'''<br /> <br /> [[File:USB Colours.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> |+ USB Wiring<br /> |-<br /> ! Signal !! Colour !! Pico TestPoint<br /> |-<br /> | Gnd || Black || TP1<br /> |-<br /> | Data+ || Green || TP3<br /> |-<br /> | Data- || White || TP2<br /> |-<br /> | V+ || Red || Pin 40<br /> |}<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. <br /> <br /> Select external power by shorting middle to EXT on JP4. Remember to fit the fuse and short JP1 to enable power in. Put 12v on the power input socket J1 and there should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerRev3.pdf&diff=11253 2024-05-31T18:19:38Z

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G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf&diff=11252 2024-05-31T18:10:58Z

<p>G0MJW: G0MJW uploaded a new version of File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf</p> <hr /> <div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx&diff=11251 2024-05-31T18:01:04Z

<p>G0MJW: G0MJW uploaded a new version of File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx</p> <hr /> <div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx&diff=11217 2024-05-02T10:55:46Z

<p>G0MJW: G0MJW uploaded a new version of File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx</p> <hr /> <div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11193 2024-04-26T09:46:30Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Rev 3 */</p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB that will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop from the beginning of April 2024.<br /> <br /> https://batc.org.uk/shop/picotuner-blank-pcb/<br /> <br /> Note:- The following pictures show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. The basic Pico model is all you need for USB operation. The basic Pico (without wireless) comes in two versions, one with header pins (the Pico H) at about £5, and one without header pins (the Pico) at about £4.<br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> *The parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerADJBOM_updated.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> *The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> It should look a bit like this (Excepting R4 value)<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTuner-Rev1.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> * The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]]<br /> <br /> The PCB should look a little like this:<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner v3 board.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> and when built:<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Parts Availability===<br /> <br /> The continued availability of specified components is an ongoing problem for designs such as this.<br /> The 3v3 regulator TPS78533 can be substituted with the onsemi NCV5661DT33RKG, available from DigiKey with part number NCV5661DT33RKGOSCT-ND.<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB. The pictures above show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. A standard Raspberry Pi Pico (non-wifi) is all that is required for a USB connected PicoTuner. <br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the ground plane on the back side of the PCB for heat dissipation. So, start with this chip. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place and flat against the board. When happy, turn over the board and with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the small slot intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but you need a decent thermal mass due to the copper ground plane. Use the correct tools, don't be tempted to try a small 25w iron that will take a long time slowly getting the joint up to solder melting point, as that will damage the chip.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with regulators U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics. <br /> <br /> If you plan to use the type B USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND. You can also directly solder the USB lead to the Test Points under the USB socket on the Pico; the +V line can be routed through the adjacent hole abnd soldered to the top of Pin 40 as shown here.<br /> <br /> [[File:USB Colours.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> |+ USB Wiring<br /> |-<br /> ! Signal !! Colour !! Pico TestPoint<br /> |-<br /> | Gnd || Black || TP1<br /> |-<br /> | Data+ || Green || TP3<br /> |-<br /> | Data- || White || TP2<br /> |-<br /> | V+ || Red || Pin 40<br /> |}<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11192 2024-04-26T09:44:56Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Rev 3 */</p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB that will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop from the beginning of April 2024.<br /> <br /> https://batc.org.uk/shop/picotuner-blank-pcb/<br /> <br /> Note:- The following pictures show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. The basic Pico model is all you need for USB operation. The basic Pico (without wireless) comes in two versions, one with header pins (the Pico H) at about £5, and one without header pins (the Pico) at about £4.<br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> *The parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerADJBOM_updated.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> *The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> It should look a bit like this (Excepting R4 value)<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTuner-Rev1.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> * The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]]<br /> <br /> The PCB should look a little like this:<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner v3 board.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> and when built:<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Parts Availability===<br /> <br /> The continued availability of specified components is an ongoing problem for designs such as this.<br /> The 3v3 regulator TPS78533 can be substituted with the onsemi NCV5661DT33RKG, available from DigiKey with part number NCV5661DT33RKGOSCT-ND.<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB. The pictures above show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. A standard Raspberry Pi Pico (non-wifi) is all that is required for a USB connected PicoTuner. <br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the ground plane on the back side of the PCB for heat dissipation. So, start with this chip. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place and flat against the board. When happy, turn over the board and with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the small slot intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but you need a decent thermal mass due to the copper ground plane. Use the correct tools, don't be tempted to try a small 25w iron that will take a long time slowly getting the joint up to solder melting point, as that will damage the chip.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with regulators U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics. <br /> <br /> If you plan to use the type B USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND. You can also directly solder the USB lead to the Test Points under the USB socket on the Pico; the +V line can be routed through the adjacent hole abnd soldered to the top of Pin 40 as shown here.<br /> <br /> [[File:USB Colours.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> |+ USB Wiring<br /> |-<br /> ! Signal !! Colour !! Pico TestPoint<br /> |-<br /> | Gnd || Black || TP1<br /> |-<br /> | Data+ || Green || TP3<br /> |-<br /> | Data- || White || TP2<br /> |-<br /> | V+ || Red || Pin 40<br /> |}<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11191 2024-04-26T09:44:30Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Rev 3 */</p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB that will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop from the beginning of April 2024.<br /> <br /> https://batc.org.uk/shop/picotuner-blank-pcb/<br /> <br /> Note:- The following pictures show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. The basic Pico model is all you need for USB operation. The basic Pico (without wireless) comes in two versions, one with header pins (the Pico H) at about £5, and one without header pins (the Pico) at about £4.<br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> *The parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerADJBOM_updated.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> *The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> It should look a bit like this (Excepting R4 value)<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTuner-Rev1.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> * The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]]<br /> <br /> The PCB should look a little like this<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner v3 board.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Parts Availability===<br /> <br /> The continued availability of specified components is an ongoing problem for designs such as this.<br /> The 3v3 regulator TPS78533 can be substituted with the onsemi NCV5661DT33RKG, available from DigiKey with part number NCV5661DT33RKGOSCT-ND.<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB. The pictures above show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. A standard Raspberry Pi Pico (non-wifi) is all that is required for a USB connected PicoTuner. <br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the ground plane on the back side of the PCB for heat dissipation. So, start with this chip. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place and flat against the board. When happy, turn over the board and with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the small slot intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but you need a decent thermal mass due to the copper ground plane. Use the correct tools, don't be tempted to try a small 25w iron that will take a long time slowly getting the joint up to solder melting point, as that will damage the chip.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with regulators U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics. <br /> <br /> If you plan to use the type B USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND. You can also directly solder the USB lead to the Test Points under the USB socket on the Pico; the +V line can be routed through the adjacent hole abnd soldered to the top of Pin 40 as shown here.<br /> <br /> [[File:USB Colours.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> |+ USB Wiring<br /> |-<br /> ! Signal !! Colour !! Pico TestPoint<br /> |-<br /> | Gnd || Black || TP1<br /> |-<br /> | Data+ || Green || TP3<br /> |-<br /> | Data- || White || TP2<br /> |-<br /> | V+ || Red || Pin 40<br /> |}<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:Picotuner_v3_board.jpg&diff=11190 2024-04-26T09:43:50Z

<p>G0MJW: File uploaded with MsUpload</p> <hr /> <div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11158 2024-04-14T16:23:01Z

<p>G0MJW: </p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB that will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop from the beginning of April 2024.<br /> <br /> https://batc.org.uk/shop/picotuner-blank-pcb/<br /> <br /> Note:- The following pictures show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. The basic Pico model is all you need for USB operation. The basic Pico (without wireless) comes in two versions, one with header pins (the Pico H) at about £5, and one without header pins (the Pico) at about £4.<br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> *BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerADJBOM_updated.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> *The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> *If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> It should look a bit like this (Excepting R4 value)<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTuner-Rev1.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> * Rev 3 BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> * The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> * The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]]<br /> <br /> The PCB should look a little like this<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> ===Parts Availability===<br /> <br /> The continued availability of specified components is an ongoing problem for designs such as this.<br /> The 3v3 regulator TPS78533 can be substituted with the onsemi NCV5661DT33RKG, available from DigiKey with part number NCV5661DT33RKGOSCT-ND.<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB. The pictures above show the optional Wiznet version of the Pico with Integrated Ethernet Port. A standard Raspberry Pi Pico (non-wifi) is all that is required for a USB connected PicoTuner. <br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the ground plane on the back side of the PCB for heat dissipation. So, start with this chip. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place and flat against the board. When happy, turn over the board and with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the small slot intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but you need a decent thermal mass due to the copper ground plane. Use the correct tools, don't be tempted to try a small 25w iron that will take a long time slowly getting the joint up to solder melting point, as that will damage the chip.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with regulators U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics. <br /> <br /> If you plan to use the type B USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND. You can also directly solder the USB lead to the Test Points under the USB socket on the Pico; the +V line can be routed through the adjacent hole abnd soldered to the top of Pin 40 as shown here.<br /> <br /> [[File:USB Colours.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> |+ USB Wiring<br /> |-<br /> ! Signal !! Colour !! Pico TestPoint<br /> |-<br /> | Gnd || Black || TP1<br /> |-<br /> | Data+ || Green || TP3<br /> |-<br /> | Data- || White || TP2<br /> |-<br /> | V+ || Red || Pin 40<br /> |}<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11128 2024-04-02T21:35:54Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Rev 3 */</p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024. <br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerrev1.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> It should look a bit like this (Excepting R4 value)<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTuner-Rev1.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> Rev 3 BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> The PCB should look a little like this<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB.<br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the groundplane. So, start with this. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place. When happy, with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the hole on the reverse side of the PCB intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but note a cheap, small 25W iron wont work. Use the correct tools.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytic. <br /> <br /> However, if you plan to use the type A USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND.<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11127 2024-04-02T21:35:43Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Rev 3 */</p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024. <br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerrev1.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> It should look a bit like this (Excepting R4 value)<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTuner-Rev1.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> Rev 3 BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> The PCB should look a little like this<br /> [[File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB.<br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the groundplane. So, start with this. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place. When happy, with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the hole on the reverse side of the PCB intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but note a cheap, small 25W iron wont work. Use the correct tools.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytic. <br /> <br /> However, if you plan to use the type A USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND.<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11126 2024-04-02T21:35:33Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Rev 1 */</p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024. <br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerrev1.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> It should look a bit like this (Excepting R4 value)<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTuner-Rev1.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> Rev 3 BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> The PCB should look a little like this [[File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB.<br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the groundplane. So, start with this. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place. When happy, with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the hole on the reverse side of the PCB intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but note a cheap, small 25W iron wont work. Use the correct tools.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytic. <br /> <br /> However, if you plan to use the type A USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND.<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11125 2024-04-02T21:35:14Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Rev 1 */</p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024. <br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerrev1.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> IT should look a bit like this (Excepting R4 value) [[File:PicoTuner-Rev1.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> Rev 3 BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> The PCB should look a little like this [[File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB.<br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the groundplane. So, start with this. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place. When happy, with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the hole on the reverse side of the PCB intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but note a cheap, small 25W iron wont work. Use the correct tools.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytic. <br /> <br /> However, if you plan to use the type A USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND.<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTuner-Rev1.jpg&diff=11124 2024-04-02T21:34:37Z

<p>G0MJW: File uploaded with MsUpload</p> <hr /> <div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11123 2024-04-02T21:30:34Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Rev 3 */</p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024. <br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerrev1.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> Rev 3 BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> The PCB should look a little like this [[File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB.<br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the groundplane. So, start with this. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place. When happy, with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the hole on the reverse side of the PCB intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but note a cheap, small 25W iron wont work. Use the correct tools.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytic. <br /> <br /> However, if you plan to use the type A USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND.<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerRev3.jpg&diff=11122 2024-04-02T21:30:09Z

<p>G0MJW: File uploaded with MsUpload</p> <hr /> <div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11121 2024-04-02T21:28:03Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Rev 1 */</p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024. <br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerrev1.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> A drawing for the back panel is here [[:File:BackPanel.pdf]]<br /> <br /> If you want to 3D print a template, this may help [[:File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> Rev 3 BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB.<br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the groundplane. So, start with this. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place. When happy, with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the hole on the reverse side of the PCB intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but note a cheap, small 25W iron wont work. Use the correct tools.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytic. <br /> <br /> However, if you plan to use the type A USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND.<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:3DPicoBackPanelPad.zip&diff=11120 2024-04-02T21:27:33Z

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G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:BackPanel.pdf&diff=11119 2024-04-02T21:25:36Z

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G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11118 2024-04-02T20:47:44Z

<p>G0MJW: </p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024. <br /> <br /> ===Rev 1===<br /> <br /> Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.<br /> <br /> BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerrev1.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTuner-rev1.pdf]]<br /> <br /> ===Rev 3===<br /> <br /> The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.<br /> <br /> Rev 3 BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> ==Build instructions==<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> '''Important notes'''<br /> <br /> * It is recommend that the Rpi Pico is placed in a socket and not soldered directly. <br /> <br /> *'''Note the Pico orientation''' - the USB socket must point away from the edge of the PCB.<br /> <br /> * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.<br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the groundplane. So, start with this. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place. When happy, with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the hole on the reverse side of the PCB intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but note a cheap, small 25W iron wont work. Use the correct tools.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytic. <br /> <br /> However, if you plan to use the type A USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND.<br /> <br /> Approximate build time is 2 hours.<br /> <br /> ==Testing==<br /> <br /> The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. <br /> <br /> However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf&diff=11077 2024-03-31T20:06:41Z

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G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx&diff=11076 2024-03-31T20:05:27Z

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G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11075 2024-03-31T19:14:37Z

<p>G0MJW: </p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024.<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Draft BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the groundplane. So, start with this. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place. When happy, with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the hole on the reverse side of the PCB intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but note a cheap, small 25W iron wont work. Use the correct tools.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics. If this were SMD it would take about 30 minutes but with it being through hole probably about 2 hours due to constant requirement to invert the board and search the bench and floor for the components that fell out.<br /> <br /> Note, do not install the NIM yet. The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> That's it. However, if you plan to use the USB port, you will need to make up a patch lead. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND.<br /> <br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf&diff=11074 2024-03-31T19:13:59Z

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G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx&diff=11073 2024-03-31T19:13:17Z

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G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11072 2024-03-31T18:32:15Z

<p>G0MJW: </p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024.<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Draft BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the groundplane. So, start with this. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place. When happy, with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the hole on the reverse side of the PCB intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but note a cheap, small 25W iron wont work. Use the correct tools.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics. If this were SMD it would take about 30 minutes but with it being through hole probably about 2 hours due to constant requirement to invert the board and search the bench and floor for the components that fell out.<br /> <br /> Note, do not install the NIM yet. The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.3-4.5V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> That's it. However, if you plan to use the USB port, you will need to make up a patch lead. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND.<br /> <br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx&diff=11071 2024-03-31T18:32:05Z

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G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerADJBOM.xlsx&diff=11070 2024-03-31T18:30:52Z

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G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf&diff=11069 2024-03-31T17:56:34Z

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G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf&diff=11052 2024-03-28T19:25:32Z

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G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11051 2024-03-28T17:58:41Z

<p>G0MJW: </p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024.<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Draft BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerADJBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the groundplane. So, start with this. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place. When happy, with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the hole on the reverse side of the PCB intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but note a cheap, small 25W iron wont work. Use the correct tools.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics. If this were SMD it would take about 30 minutes but with it being through hole probably about 2 hours due to constant requirement to invert the board and search the bench and floor for the components that fell out.<br /> <br /> Note, do not install the NIM yet. The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.3-4.5V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> That's it. However, if you plan to use the USB port, you will need to make up a patch lead. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The &quot;standard&quot; is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND.<br /> <br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11050 2024-03-28T17:56:29Z

<p>G0MJW: </p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024.<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Draft BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerADJBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the groundplane. So, start with this. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place. When happy, with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the hole on the reverse side of the PCB intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but note a cheap, small 25W iron wont work. Use the correct tools.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics. If this were SMD it would take about 30 minutes but with it being through hole probably about 2 hours due to constant requirement to invert the board and search the bench and floor for the components that fell out.<br /> <br /> Note, do not install the NIM yet. The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.3-4.5V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.<br /> <br /> If all is OK, fit the Pico and move the supply JP4 to USB. Connect the Pico to a USB port and repeat the testing for TP4, TP5 and TP6. You may also want to install the firmware - see below.<br /> <br /> That completes the testing, but it won't work yet until the NIM is fitted, so do that next. Be careful not to bend any pins on installing it, it should be an easy fit, if it isn't something is wrong. Make sure it is straight and properly seated, then solder the tabs. Only solder the pins after checking everything is correctly placed.<br /> <br /> That's it. However, if you plan to use the USB port, you need to make up a patch lead. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11049 2024-03-28T17:46:52Z

<p>G0MJW: </p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024.<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Draft BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerADJBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> Construction is straight forward and best done according to the height of the components being fitted. <br /> <br /> The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the groundplane. So, start with this. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place. When happy, with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the hole on the reverse side of the PCB intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but note a cheap, small 25W iron wont work. Use the correct tools.<br /> <br /> I would then progress with U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 &amp; 4, the DC socket, the pinsockets, the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics. If this were SMD it would take about 30 minutes but with it being through hole probably about 2 hours due to constant requirement to invert the board and search the bench and floor for the components that fell out.<br /> <br /> Note, do not install the NIM yet. The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.3-4.5V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected. However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&amp;2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner_Hardware&diff=11048 2024-03-28T17:28:51Z

<p>G0MJW: </p> <hr /> <div>Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> PCBs will be made available in the shop during April 2024.<br /> <br /> The schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Draft BOM is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerADJBOM.xlsx]]<br /> <br /> Construction if straight forwards, best done according to the height of the component being fitted. The LNB supply chip is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered<br /> <br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf&diff=11047 2024-03-28T17:27:09Z

<p>G0MJW: File uploaded with MsUpload</p> <hr /> <div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=PicoTuner&diff=11046 2024-03-28T17:25:11Z

<p>G0MJW: /* Pico tuner hardware */</p> <hr /> <div>PicoTuner is a USB tuner PCB for DATV based around the Serit 4334 NIM using the RpiPico as the USB interface.<br /> <br /> The main reason for the development is to use the £5 Raspberry Pi Pico in place of the £32 FTDI USB interface on the MiniTiouner PCB. Using the Pico interface also enables 2 channels to be decoded and displayed at the same time.<br /> <br /> Once proven it is envisaged that PicoTuner will replace the MiniTiouner Mk2 PCB for all new builds, however limited stock of the MiniTiouner PCB and FTDI module will be held in the BATC shop for those who wish to continue to use the MiniTiouner software which is NOT compatible with PicoTuner.<br /> <br /> =Receivers compatible with PicoTuner=<br /> <br /> ==OpenTuner==<br /> <br /> Version V0.9 onwards of OpenTuner by Tom ZR6TG is compatible with PicoTuner and can display 2 channels simultaneously.<br /> <br /> You will need to install the usb drivers to be able to use it with OpenTuner. Details can be found here https://www.zr6tg.co.za/2024/02/11/picotuner-an-experimental-dual-ts-alternative/<br /> <br /> Alternatively, ZR6TG has developed a simple test app that will install the windows drivers for PicoTuner. It is at beta version but available from here: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/3ziiiq71hretd2yzaou8f/picotuner_driver_test_app.zip?rlkey=gl4xsxddxprxfvjjydebvez5y&amp;dl=0<br /> <br /> - You can detect and check the drivers<br /> - Install the drivers (required admin privs - right click and run as administrator)<br /> - Check PicoTuner Version<br /> - Check github for latest version (just a check and copies directly link to uf2 in clipboard<br /> - Force Bootsel<br /> <br /> [[File:picotuner_driverinstall.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Once PicoTuner drivers are properly installed on Windows 10, they show up in Device Manager as shown below:<br /> <br /> [[File:PicoTuner in Device Manager.JPG|200px]]<br /> <br /> ==Portsdown==<br /> <br /> Version xxxx onwards of the Portsdown receiver is compatible with PicoTuner but can only display one channel.<br /> <br /> ==Ryde==<br /> <br /> Version xxxx onwards of the Portsdown Ryde is compatible with PicoTuner but can only display one channel.<br /> <br /> ==Minitiouner software - NOT compatible==<br /> <br /> Current versions of the MiniTiouner PC software '''WILL NOT''' work with PicoTuner. As F6DZP is no longer updating Minitioune it will probably never be compatible.<br /> <br /> =Pico tuner hardware=<br /> <br /> Mike G0MJW has designed a PCB which will host the Serit NIM and Pico board. The Pico can either be a standard board or the WizNet-5100-EVB-Pico which is basically a Pico with an integrated ethernet interface.<br /> <br /> [[File:Picotuner Mk1.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Full details are available here [[PicoTuner Hardware]]<br /> <br /> =Surface mount Pico adaptor for the MiniTiouner V2 PCB=<br /> <br /> Whilst the PicoTuner was designed for use in a new tuner design it can also be retrofitted to the BATC V2 Minitiouner and similar designs providing their FTDI modules are fitted in sockets. <br /> <br /> Full details are available here: [[Surface mount Pico adaptor for the MiniTiouner V2 PCB]]<br /> <br /> = Programming the Pico =<br /> <br /> This can be done either before or after the Pico has been fitted to the PCB, it makes no difference. Updating to a new firmware version is done the same way. <br /> <br /> 1. Locate the latest compiled firmware file 'PicoTuner_vxxx.uf2' which will be found here https://github.com/g4eml/PicoTuner/releases and save it to your desktop. <br /> <br /> 2. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while connecting it to your PC using its micro USB port. The Pico should appear as a USB disk drive on your PC.<br /> <br /> 3. Copy the .uf2 file onto the USB drive. The Pico will recognise the file and immediately update its firmware, reboot and the PC should recognise a new USB device.</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=Gerber_Files&diff=10219 2023-01-16T22:29:56Z

<p>G0MJW: /* G0MJW's PD4 board */</p> <hr /> <div>This is a centralised index of Gerber Files which have been used for BATC and BATC Members' projects.<br /> <br /> No responsibility is accepted for any errors, but they are listed here to promote home construction and experimentation.<br /> <br /> Files should be uploaded as .zip files, and should also be referenced from another Wiki page describing the project.<br /> <br /> ===Ryde Front Panel===<br /> <br /> The Ryde Front Panel Push Button PCB as descried here: [[Ryde_Hardware#Ryde_front_panel]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Gerbers.zip|thumb|Ryde Front Panel PCBGerbers]]<br /> <br /> ===ADF4351 PIC Controller===<br /> <br /> The ADF4351 PIC Controller described here: [[ADF435x_PIC]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:adf435x.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===DATV Repeater Audio Switch===<br /> <br /> The DATV Repeater Audio Switch as described here [[DATV_repeater_audio_switch]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:REPEATER I2C AUDIO SWITCH V2022.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's Ryde board===<br /> <br /> This is like a plug in board for the PI4 that provides the 5V PSU, a cooling option and Ryde IO interface. The information is all below. There are two PSU options, only one is required. All fairly simple. These Gerbers are set up for JLC PCB. In theory all you need to do is upload the zip file with the gerbers and select quantity, solder mask colour and postage options. The BOM is an HTML file in the ibom zip.<br /> <br /> [[:File:RydeGpioV2.zip]]<br /> <br /> [[File:RYDE GPIO 3D.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> [[File:RydeV2Schematic.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:ibom.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's PD4 board===<br /> <br /> TBC (after CAT22)<br /> <br /> This is a PCB to implement a Portsdown 4 with 25 pid connector for interfacing to test equipment.<br /> <br /> [[File:P4GPIO2.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> Schematic [[:File:P4GPIO.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Gerbers [[:File:P4GPIO25Way.zip]]<br /> <br /> BOM [[:File:ibom25way.zip]]</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=Gerber_Files&diff=10218 2023-01-16T22:28:51Z

<p>G0MJW: /* G0MJW's PD4 board */</p> <hr /> <div>This is a centralised index of Gerber Files which have been used for BATC and BATC Members' projects.<br /> <br /> No responsibility is accepted for any errors, but they are listed here to promote home construction and experimentation.<br /> <br /> Files should be uploaded as .zip files, and should also be referenced from another Wiki page describing the project.<br /> <br /> ===Ryde Front Panel===<br /> <br /> The Ryde Front Panel Push Button PCB as descried here: [[Ryde_Hardware#Ryde_front_panel]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Gerbers.zip|thumb|Ryde Front Panel PCBGerbers]]<br /> <br /> ===ADF4351 PIC Controller===<br /> <br /> The ADF4351 PIC Controller described here: [[ADF435x_PIC]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:adf435x.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===DATV Repeater Audio Switch===<br /> <br /> The DATV Repeater Audio Switch as described here [[DATV_repeater_audio_switch]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:REPEATER I2C AUDIO SWITCH V2022.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's Ryde board===<br /> <br /> This is like a plug in board for the PI4 that provides the 5V PSU, a cooling option and Ryde IO interface. The information is all below. There are two PSU options, only one is required. All fairly simple. These Gerbers are set up for JLC PCB. In theory all you need to do is upload the zip file with the gerbers and select quantity, solder mask colour and postage options. The BOM is an HTML file in the ibom zip.<br /> <br /> [[:File:RydeGpioV2.zip]]<br /> <br /> [[File:RYDE GPIO 3D.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> [[File:RydeV2Schematic.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:ibom.zip]]<br /> <br /> ===G0MJW's PD4 board===<br /> <br /> TBC (after CAT22)<br /> <br /> This is a PCB to implement a Portsdown 4 with 25 pid connector for interfacing to test equipment.<br /> <br /> [[File:P4GPIO2.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:P4GPIO.pdf]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:P4GPIO25Way.zip]]<br /> <br /> [[:File:ibom25way.zip]]</div>

G0MJW https://wiki.batc.org.uk/index.php?title=File:Ibom25way.zip&diff=10217 2023-01-16T22:28:14Z

<p>G0MJW: File uploaded with MsUpload</p> <hr /> <div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>

G0MJW