PicoTuner Hardware - Revision history

G4FRE: /* PCBs, BOM and schematic */

2026-08-20T09:17:45Z

PCBs, BOM and schematic

G4FRE: /* Rev 3 */

2026-08-20T09:15:33Z

Rev 3

G4FRE: /* Rev 1 */

2026-08-20T09:13:35Z

Rev 1

G4FRE: /* PCBs, BOM and schematic */

2026-08-20T09:12:32Z

PCBs, BOM and schematic

G0MJW: /* Rev 3 */

2025-01-06T16:06:23Z

Rev 3

G0MJW: /* Rev 3 */

2024-05-31T18:23:24Z

Rev 3

G0MJW at 18:19, 31 May 2024

2024-05-31T18:19:46Z

G8GTZ: /* Build instructions */

2024-05-03T14:08:20Z

Build instructions

G8GTZ: /* Rev 3 */

2024-05-03T14:05:49Z

Rev 3

G8GTZ: /* Rev 3 */

2024-05-03T14:05:25Z

Rev 3

@@ Line 6: / Line 6: @@
 ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==
-Rev 1 PCBs were made available in the BATC shop in April 2024. Rev 3 PCBs were made available in the shop from early 2025. Ensure you refer to the appropriate section below for the PCB version you have
+Rev 1 PCBs were made available in the BATC shop in April 2024 until early 2025. Rev 3 PCBs were made available in the shop from early 2025. Ensure you refer to the appropriate section below for the PCB version you have
 https://batc.org.uk/shop/picotuner-blank-pcb/

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:15, 20 August 2026
Line 29:		Line 29:

	===Rev 3===		===Rev 3===
		+
		+	Rev 3 PCBs were supplied by the BATC shop from early 2025.

	The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.		The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.

@@ Line 14: / Line 14: @@
 ===Rev 1===
-Early PCBs from the BATC shop are at Rev 1.
+Early PCBs from the BATC shop available april 2024 to early 2025 are at Rev 1.
 *The parts list (BOM) is available here:  [[:File:PicoTunerADJBOM_updated.xlsx]]

@@ Line 6: / Line 6: @@
 ==PCBs, BOM and schematic==
-PCBs will be made available in the shop from the beginning of April 2024.
+Rev 1 PCBs were made available in the BATC shop in April 2024. Rev 3 PCBs were made available in the shop from early 2025. Ensure you refer to the appropriate section below for the PCB version you have
 https://batc.org.uk/shop/picotuner-blank-pcb/

@@ Line 36: / Line 36: @@
 * The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerRev3.pdf]]
-* The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]] This can be printed out (you will have to get the correct scaling on your printer) and tacked on to the Hammond case back panel and drilled.
+* The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]] This can be printed out (you will have to get the correct scaling on your printer) and tacked on to the Hammond case back panel and drilled. 3D STL[[:File:PicoBackPanelSTL.zip]]
 The blank PCB, available from the BATC shop looks like this:

@@ Line 32: / Line 32: @@
 The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.
-* The Rev 3 parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]
+* The Rev 3 parts list (BOM) is available here:[[:File:PicoTunerRev3_BOM.xlsx]]
 * The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerRev3.pdf]]

@@ Line 63: / Line 63: @@
 * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.
-The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the ground plane on the back side of the PCB for heat dissipation. So, start with this chip. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place and flat against the board. When happy, turn over the board and with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the small slot intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but you need a decent thermal mass due to the copper ground plane. Use the correct tools, don't be tempted to try a small 25w iron that will take a long time slowly getting the joint up to solder melting point, as that will damage the chip.
+The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the ground plane on the back side of the PCB for heat dissipation. So, start with this chip. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place and flat against the board. When happy, turn over the board and with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the small slot intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but you need a large iron to give a decent thermal mass due to the copper ground plane. Use the correct tools, don't be tempted to try a small 25w iron that will take a long time slowly getting the joint up to solder melting point, as that will damage the chip.
 I would then progress with regulators U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 & 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics.

@@ Line 38: / Line 38: @@
 * The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]] This can be printed out (you will have to get the correct scaling on your printer) and tacked on to the Hammond case back panel and drilled.
-The blank PCB looks like this:
+The blank PCB, available from the BATC shop looks like this:
 [[File:Picotuner v3 board.jpg|400px]]