PicoTuner Hardware - Revision history

G0MJW: /* Rev 3 */

2025-01-06T16:06:23Z

Rev 3

G0MJW: /* Rev 3 */

2024-05-31T18:23:24Z

Rev 3

G0MJW at 18:19, 31 May 2024

2024-05-31T18:19:46Z

G8GTZ: /* Build instructions */

2024-05-03T14:08:20Z

Build instructions

G8GTZ: /* Rev 3 */

2024-05-03T14:05:49Z

Rev 3

G8GTZ: /* Rev 3 */

2024-05-03T14:05:25Z

Rev 3

G8GTZ: /* Rev 3 */

2024-05-03T14:05:04Z

Rev 3

G8GTZ: /* Rev 3 */

2024-05-03T14:04:36Z

Rev 3

G8GTZ: /* Testing */

2024-05-03T13:18:36Z

Testing

G8GTZ: /* Build instructions */

2024-05-03T13:15:37Z

Build instructions

@@ Line 36: / Line 36: @@
 * The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerRev3.pdf]]
-* The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]] This can be printed out (you will have to get the correct scaling on your printer) and tacked on to the Hammond case back panel and drilled.
+* The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]] This can be printed out (you will have to get the correct scaling on your printer) and tacked on to the Hammond case back panel and drilled. 3D STL[[:File:PicoBackPanelSTL.zip]]
 The blank PCB, available from the BATC shop looks like this:

@@ Line 32: / Line 32: @@
 The changes on the Rev 3 PCB are the addition of a power LED and all LEDs are now on the front panel.
-* The Rev 3 parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]
+* The Rev 3 parts list (BOM) is available here:[[:File:PicoTunerRev3_BOM.xlsx]]
 * The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerRev3.pdf]]

@@ Line 34: / Line 34: @@
 * The Rev 3 parts list (BOM) is available here: [[:File:PicoTunerFinalBOM.xlsx]]
-* The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerFinal.pdf]]
+* The Rev 3 schematic is available here [[:File:PicoTunerRev3.pdf]]
 * The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]] This can be printed out (you will have to get the correct scaling on your printer) and tacked on to the Hammond case back panel and drilled.

@@ Line 63: / Line 63: @@
 * Note, do not install the NIM or Pico until the PCB has been tested.
-The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the ground plane on the back side of the PCB for heat dissipation. So, start with this chip. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place and flat against the board. When happy, turn over the board and with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the small slot intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but you need a decent thermal mass due to the copper ground plane. Use the correct tools, don't be tempted to try a small 25w iron that will take a long time slowly getting the joint up to solder melting point, as that will damage the chip.
+The LNB supply chip, if used, is the most challenging as it is an SMD device and has a pad on the base that needs to be soldered to the ground plane on the back side of the PCB for heat dissipation. So, start with this chip. First solder the chip pins to the PCB, taking care to get it in the correct place and flat against the board. When happy, turn over the board and with a large soldering iron, heat the pad and poke some solder through the small slot intended for this purpose. Do not use too much solder. It's not hard if you take care, but you need a large iron to give a decent thermal mass due to the copper ground plane. Use the correct tools, don't be tempted to try a small 25w iron that will take a long time slowly getting the joint up to solder melting point, as that will damage the chip.
 I would then progress with regulators U4, U5 and U6, ensuring to get them in the right places, then the resistors, then D8, U1, D1, D2, the pin-headers JP1, 2 3 & 4, the DC socket and USB socket, the pin-sockets for the pico (not optional, trust me, you will need to remove it at some point), the ceramic capacitors the remaining diodes, C1, C5, the LEDs, the fuse holder, molex connectors and finally the electrolytics.

@@ Line 38: / Line 38: @@
 * The back panel design is here [[:File:BackPanel3.pdf]] This can be printed out (you will have to get the correct scaling on your printer) and tacked on to the Hammond case back panel and drilled.
-The blank PCB looks like this:
+The blank PCB, available from the BATC shop looks like this:
 [[File:Picotuner v3 board.jpg|400px]]

@@ Line 91: / Line 91: @@
 ==Testing==
-The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1. Select external and power from 12V. Remember to fit the fuse and JP1. There should be 4.0-4.2V at TP3. There will be no supply to the rest of the regulators until JP4 is selected.
+The first thing to do is test the regulators, starting with U1.
 However, as the regulators are not enabled there will be no output. To get an output it is necessary to temporarily short pins 1&2 on U4 or U6. This sets the enable pin high and the correct voltages should appear on TP4, TP5 and TP6. Once tested, remember to remove the short.

@@ Line 68: / Line 68: @@
 If you plan to use the type B USB port on the back panel, you will need to make up a patch lead to go from the Pico USB port to the white 4 pin Molex connector next to the USB socket. The best way is to cut up a good quality micro-USB cable. The pinout is marked on the silk screen. The "standard" is Red V+, Green D+, White D- and Black GND.  You can also directly solder the USB lead to the Test Points under the USB socket on the Pico; the +V line can be routed through the adjacent hole abnd soldered to the top of Pin 40 as shown here.
 '''
-NOTE the correct way round to fit the Pico in the picture below'''
+'''NOTE the correct way round to fit the Pico in the picture below'''
 [[File:USB Colours.jpg|400px]]